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On Monday Mark had a reading day (he’s almost finished novel number six) and did some washing while I took a train down the coast to the town of Cagnes-sur-Mer, which is where Renoir lived his final years. After the train ride I took Bus 42 to just outside of town to make the walk up the hill to Renoir’s home, which is now a museum.

It was just…


…this hill… I was very much looking forward to seeing Musee Renoir. It had a collection of his paintings and the entire house and his studio were left just as they were during his life.

I finally made it!

On the gate, however, was this sign. Closed for renovations until Summer 2013. Now, you’d think that would be something they would deem to put on their website to assist potential visitors! Argh! Underneath it was another sign that said “We hope you visit the museum at the Chateau in Haut-de-Cagnes”. Well, I thought, all is not lost as I was wanting to go to Haut-de-Cagnes, or high/upper Cagnes, anyway.

I walked back to town.

This picture, which was taken from the train, gives you an idea of the geography of Cagnes-sur-Mer. Haut-de-Cagnes and the castle are right up on the top of the hill, the rest of Cagnes-sur-Mer lies at the foot of the hill, on the sea (sur-mer). (Renoir’s house was up another hill to the right and out of the frame of this picture.)

Luckily they have a ‘navette’, or free shuttle bus that takes you up to the top of Haut-de-Cagnes. I am glad of that, because when I got to the castle, the gruff French man at the door to the Chateau museum (you can see him above, at the top of the stairs) told me that the Museum was closed (ferme) for renovations. Aaaargh!


I thought I would drop in to the Tourist Information centre for a walking tour or something like that. Guess what? Closed. Not for renovations though, just closed from September to June each year…

This cafe was open but there was no-one there. I felt like Charlton Heston in Omega Man.

There were some great views though.

The castle looked very interesting.

Finally another person! Haut-de-Cagnes is a wonderfully preserved medieval hill town.

There is a warren of narrow streets and stone houses.


I went into the little chapel.

It was so dim in there I could barely see, but luckily my camera picked up much more than my eyes. I put the camera on ISO 800.

I walked back down to the busy commercial centre of town where I had some lunch and then headed back to Nice. I will have to return to Cagnes-sur-Mer, but not until after the summer of 2013!